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Liv Sansoz's blog

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Outdoor Games with the Golgoht July 29, 2010

A few words about the amazing week we had during the Nissan Outdoor Games in Chamonix. The concept : five teams have to make a five minutes film showing five outdoor activities in five days. This year, I took part in the event with the Golgoht team, from Finland. And that was awesome !

First of all the Finnish crew was just the coolest guys to work and hang out with. They drove all the way down to Chamonix from Helsinki in their old huge pink bus. The coolest bus I have ever seen before in my life ! Secondly we were a great group of outdoor athletes : Matt Cooke (kayaking), Juha-Matti Pouta (VTT), Fabian Equey (Paragliding), Alex Aimard (paragliding and BASE jumping), Jean-Phi Teffaud (BASE jumping) and myself (obviously for climbing). Everyone performed very well in their outdoor activity. A special big up for Juha who jumped three times the nordic ski jump with his bike. More than 20m in the air ! That was... higly impressive and to be honest, we thought he was going to die... Watch our movie below and you'll get it.

This week was full of actions, full of fun and, above all, it was a nice human adventure. We shared something more than just our passion for the outdoor activities. Basically, it brought me a lot of good energies and lots of happiness. I'm definetely looking forward to the 2011 edition with the same crew !

A huge thanks to the Golgoht and the friends who gave us a hand to make this film happen.

More about the editing crew : http://www.pablo.fi/

Photos By Tero Repo http://www.terorepo.com/

The wicked crew in the pink bus... love those guys !

Getting the traveling fixed to film the BASE jump sequence (at 5:30 am...)

Alex and Jean-Fi during one of their amazing two way. A very intense moment...

Scouting for the ideal route : hard enough with a nice scenery...

Kim jumaring for is second time of his life without any troubles


A little of gear for the big fall sequence on the top of the Aiguille du Midi

The video :

Super Cirill - Ticino - Switzerland June 16, 2010

Ines Papert and I have been speaking since a little while to share more climbing and adventures together. 


Lately, Ines suggested we should climb the "Super Cirill" route in Ticino. It is a trad climbing route of 9 pitches (7a+, 7a+, 7b+, 7c+/8a, 6b+ traverse, 8a/8a+, 6c+, 6c, 6a+).
The crux pitch is a fingery crack (8a/8a+) on pitch # 6. The other pitches are either cracks or technical face climbing.
The other hard pitch (7c+/8a) is a face climbing, quite demanding, technical and not even vertical. But really interesting to climb once you got the right betas.

Beside the fact I had never free climb a hard trad pitch, I was imediately stoked. Sharing this route with Ines sounds awesome as she's a true friend and a solid climber. And this was a good opportunity to improve my experience with trad climbing.

Unfortunately, we could not make it. We had to deal with the rain, a very hot weather and the rain again...
We tried to work the crux picth despite those conditions but humide fingers sliding into the crack and slipery feet were not that fun.

Neither Ines nor I are the type of person who give up easily. But, we had to left. For this time. We are definitely planning on coming back together this fall. And  finally send  the "Super Cirill".

A few pictures of Ticino to make you wanted to climb this route as well... By Thomas Senf

Ines and I = the great team !

The hardest pitch...

I'll need a few more working day to start to feel comfortable with this beautiful crack... and scary end ;-)

Rainy breakfast under a shelter at the Sonlerto village.

The whole Valley of Bavonna worth the visit !

Escala'Buoux May 17, 2010

Version Française en-dessous

A few words about the Buoux meeting that took place this week-end. The organization was great, and the west face was re-bolted and re-opened. Above all this event allowed me the pleasure to meet a lot of friends with whom I had shared some unforgettable moments of my life: François Lombard, François Legrand, Nathalie Richer, JB Tribout my old French team mates, the Le Menestrel brothers and a few others climbers who played a major role during the glorious years of Buoux.

For sure, the prestige of Buoux is still here. Its limestone pockets will always be incredible and its routes... remind you where you are ;-)
Some people say that it is the most beautiful crag in the world. Most Beautiful crag or not, each route of Buoux has to be earned. Painful pockets, run out bolted routes and hard technical slabs to finish... tons of true happiness that we were a few to share, big smiles on our faces.

A huge thank you to the organizers and all the volunteer people who devoted their time and energy to make this event happen.



Un petit mot sur le rassemblement de Buoux qui a eu lieu ce week-end. Une organisation au top, la face Ouest ré-équipée et ré-ouverte aux grimpeurs et surtout le plaisir de retrouver une grand nombre de grimpeurs avec qui j'ai partagé des moments inoubliables : François Lombard, François Legrand, Nathalie Richer, JB Tribout pour les anciens de l'équipe de France, les frères Le Menestrel, Pschitt et autres grimpeurs et équipeurs qui ont marqué les années folles de Buoux.
Le prestige de Buoux est resté intact. Son calcaire à trous est toujours aussi incroyable et ses voies.... vous rappellent bien à l'ordre ;-) "Certains" en viennent même à dire que c'est la plus belle falaise du monde...

Plus belle falaise du monde ou pas, chaque voie de Buoux se mérite. Trous qui se font douloureux à la longue, espacement entre les points et sorties en dalles bien techniques... que du bonheur que nous avons été un petit nombre à partager, le sourire aux lèvres...


Un grand merci aux organisateurs et à tous les bénévoles qui ont consacré de leur temps et de leur énergie pour que ce rassemblement prenne vie.

Ambiance aérienne depuis la vire de la Plage

Léa qui redescend de sa voie avec vue sur le Moulin clos - vire de la Plage

Ateliers via cordata et tyroliennes pour les enfants

"Cadeau empoisonné".... et on a bien compris pourquoi ;-)

Magnesia - Greece May 12, 2010

Version Française en-dessous

A few months ago, Stelios, a greek climber, invited me to climb in the Magnesia area in Greece. I had never heard about it, so I was instantly curious to know more about it. After seeing his photos of the area, I decided it would be worth checking out the new limestone crags.


Map of the area

I landed in Athens and then took the road to Volos, a city of 80,000 inhabitants located at the base of Mt Pelion, next to the sea.
The crags are spread all around the area among lots of small traditional villages, perched on the sides of Mt Pelion. There are more than 10 bolted crags and at least the same amount of untouched cliffs still remaining. We have the local climbers and also to Karsten Oelze from Germany to thank for establishing the existing routes.
 

13 sectors around Volos


For me, it was a five day race to visit a maximum of sectors, to climb nice lines, try a few projects, eat the delicious local food, and speak about the potential of the area. During those days I was pleased to share Stelios’ enthusiasm for the climbing in Magnesia. And I was full of gratitude for all the work carried out to offer to the other climbers the most beautiful lines possible.



Here are a few photos - only of rocks, no climbers, since we had the privilege to be alone at the crags ;-)

This crag is called Kofi II. Long and overhanging routes with birds around

Milies : this crag is always in the shade

This nice colored cliff is called Xenia

Mikro Beach crag and Dreaming Dophin a beautiful 5.12a

Paou Cave


If you want to climb in the Magnesia area, keep in mind that the crags are not often visited, and consequently, the routes are not often climbed. There is no need to look for chalk or tick marks. Instead, you can expect to break a hold at some point... But, besides that, the area offers a variety of styles: vertical walls, small caves, and longer overhanging routes. You'll find limestone with tuffas, marbled limestone, or more featured limestone.
 

The featured limestone of Mikro Beach



Overall, the routes are short. They are well bolted, except - and this is strange - for the anchors (only one bolt most of the time). But the message has been heard and I'm sure that within a short time all the anchors will be reinforced.
Also, there is a guide book being printed now, and it will be available soon.

If you want to climb in the area, Stelios is your man:  http://www.hellas-adventures.gr/en/contact_en.php

A big thanks to Stelios and Marina for their warm welcome and kindness

Stelios climbing one of its routes at Xenia

The view from Mikro Beach

En français :

Il y a de cela quelques mois, j'avais reçu un message de Stelios m'invitant à venir grimper dans la region de Magnesia en Grèce. Je n'en avais jamais entendu parler et, en dépit de mon état physique du moment, je lui avais demande plus de renseignements et de photos. Quelques mois plus tard j'atterrissais à Athènes, ville en plein chaos, curieuse impatiente de découvrir ces falaises de calcaire.
De là, direction Volos, ville de plus de 80 000 habitants située au pied du Mont Pelion et au bord du golfe Pagassitique.

Petite carte de la région



C'est autour de cette ville et des villages traditionnels perchés sur les flancs du Mont Pelion que se trouvent une grosse dizaine de falaises équipées. On doit se travail en partie aux grimpeurs locaux mais aussi à un grimpeur allemand, Karsten Oelze.
Par ailleurs, il reste au moins, sinon plus, de falaises vierges potentiellement "grimpables".

Rien que 13 falaises équipées autour de Volos



Pour moi, ce fut une course de cinq jours pour visiter un maximum de secteurs, girmper dans de jolies voies, essayer quelques projets, goûter aux spécialités locales, discuter de l'évolution potentielle de l'escalade et partager l'enthousiasme de Stelios pour l'escalade dans sa région. Tout en éprouvant un sentiment de gratitude pour tout le travail effectué afin d'offrir aux autres grimpeurs les plus belles lignes possibles.
Quelques photos, sans grimpeurs - c'est ça le privilège d'être seuls au pied d'une falaise ;-) - pour illustrer...

La falaise de Kofi II. Des voies longues et déversantes

Milies : La falaise qui ne voit jamais le soleil

La falaise colorée de Xenia

La falaise de Mikro Beach. Ici dans Dreaming Dophin un magnifique 7a+

La grotte de Paou


Si vous allez grimper dans la région de Magnesia, gardez en tête que les sites sont encore peu visités et que, par conséquent, les voies sont peu parcourues. Pas la peine de chercher des traces de magnésie. Attendez-vous plutôt à casser encore quelques prises de temps à autre...
Mis à part cela, la région offre différents styles, des murs verticaux, des petites grottes, des dévers plus long... Du calcaire avec colo, du calcaire marbré, du calcaire sculpté.

Le calcaire sculpté de Mikro Beach


D'une façon générale les voies sont courtes. Elles sont bien équipées sauf, chose étrange, au niveau des relais (souvent un seul point). Mais le message est passé et je suis sûre que d'ici peu les relais vont être renforcés.
Par ailleurs, un topo est en cours d'édition.

Si vous avez envie de visiter cette région, contactez Stelios il sera votre homme : http://www.hellas-adventures.gr/en/contact_en.php

Un sincère remerciement à Stelios et Marina pour leur accueil chaleureux et gentillesse.

Stelios à l'oeuvre dans l'une de ses voies à  Xenia

Avec vue sur la mer depuis Mikro Beach

La Sardegna è qui* April 28, 2010

Version Francaise en-dessous

Having finally gained a bit more strength, I felt a sudden urge to climb on real rock faces again. So it was '' en route'' to Sardinia to discover its amazing limestone and feel what it was like to climb again after a seemingly endless interruption. Alongside me was my friend, Rahel, whose presence in this "learning to climb again" adventure was for me essential. Her  "happy go lucky attitude" carried our jolly little climbing party to many different crags, discovering only a small part of this suprising island. 

Cala Luna rocks and beach

Two pretty women in a car... obviously this sound weird to the carabinieri...

So many adjectives spring to mind when describing climbing in Sardinia : diversity, quality, quantity, enjoyability, beautiful and above all, unique...
Sardinia is full of crags, multipitch routes and boulders, offering a great variety to any climber's needs. Compared to Kalymnos the climbing here is more serious or less ''playful". Everything is much more diversified and complete. Above all the quality of the rock is amazing and the routes are for the main part, amazing.The advantage is that the quantity of climbing areas seems spread climbers to different spots leaving holds chalk-free, unpolished rock and well preserved natural surroundings. In actual fact the island is still extremly wild. You only have to leave the coast and drive inland to be amazed by its wilderness. Suprising, yet appreciable, for this holiday makers heaven whose beautiful beaches and crystal blue waters are world renowned.

Fixed ropes for the Millenium Approach
The water is so tempting !

Millenium viewed from the outside

Millenuim viewed from the inside
Look at the 2 small climbers on the bottom left to have an idea of how huge is the cave

Lets go for a very nice line ;-)

©_Maurizio_Oviglia

©_Maurizio_Oviglia


Decidedly, if you have the opportunity to come to Sardinia for more than a week, choose to be mobile ! Climb a few days at the crags around Cala Gonone, then close in on Supramonte and Gorropu. Head for the climbing areas around Baunei, Isili and further more Iglesias (Domusnovas Crag). The list is long but far from endless. Like us, you won't have the time to climb everywhere, but you'll want to come back, next time with ambition. Just like the wisend route setters such as Maurizio Oviglia, who are still bolting new areas with magic lines...

Bellissima !

The pretty crag of Arcadio
Rahel climbing a nice crimpy route

Ulassài : a very cool place with a huge potential

Two caves : Millenium and Biddiriscottài and two multipitches routes : Oceano Mare and the Alchimista

Maurizio Oviglia is the author of the famous guide book " Pietra di Luna ". Each and every page is an open invitation to go climbing there.
From the first time you meet him you can feel the passion that has given him the energy to clear, clean-up and equip the magnificent routes that have been handed down to fellow climbers.This tireless, minitious route creater (and climber), has today more than 1300 route opening to his name. Respect!

http://www.sardiniaclimb.com/

* This is Sardinia




VERSION FRANCAISE

Après avoir repris un peu de forces, l'appel du rocher s'est vite fait entendre. Direction la Sardaigne pour découvrir un lieu incroyable, grimper sur du très beau calcaire et retrouver certaines sensations après une trop longue interruption. Avec moi, Rahel, dont la présence et les éclats de rire faciles auront beaucoup comptés lors de ce "ré-apprentissage" de l'escalade. Notre joyeuse cordée aura grimpé dans un bon nombre de falaises en ne visitant qu'une petite partie de cette île qui recèle bien des surprises.

Jolie vue sur le rocher et la plage de Cala Luna

Deux jolies femmes dans une voiture, forcément, nos chers Carabinieri ne nous ont pas loupées



De nombreux adjectifs me viennent à l'esprit pour parler de l'escalade en Sardaigne : variété, qualité, quantité, agréable, belle, unique...
La Sardaigne regorge de falaises, grandes parois et blocs offrant ainsi une grande diversité de styles d'escalade. En comparaison avec Kalymnos, je dirai que d'une façon générale l'escalade y est plus "sérieuse", ou moins ludique. Mais elle y est beaucoup plus variée et totale. Dans tous les cas le rocher est d'excellente qualité et les lignes vraiment belles.
La quantité de sites équipés a cet avantage de ne pas concentrer tous les grimpeurs au même endroit. Par conséquent, les prises ne sont pas plâtrées de magnésie, le rocher y est peu patiné et la nature encore bien préservée. D'ailleurs, l'île est restée extrêmement sauvage. Il n'y a qu'à laisser la côte pour entrer un peu plus dans les terres et la wilderness vous ouvre ses portes. Surprenant, mais pour le coup très appréciable, pour un lieu touristique aux plages et aux eaux limpides dont la renommée mondiale n'est plus à faire.

Rahel et Maurizio dans la descente sur cordes fixes pour aller à Millenium.
La couleur de l'eau donne vraiment envie...

La grotte de Millenium vue de l'extérieur

La grotte de Millenium vue de l'intérieur.
Il y a juste à regarder les deux silhouettes en bas à droite pour comprendre l'envergure de la grotte

Et hop une p'tite voie dans la grotte...

©_Maurizio_Oviglia

                                                                                                                                             ©_Maurizio_Oviglia

Concrètement, si vous avez la possibilité de venir pour plus d'une semaine en Sardaigne, soyez mobiles. Grimpez quelques jours dans les sites environnants Cala Gonone, puis du côté de Supramonte et Gorroppu. Bougez pour les sites aux alentours de Baunei, Isili et, encore plus loin, à Iglesias (falaise de Domusnovas). La liste est déjà longue mais pas complète... Comme nous, vous n'aurez pas le temps de grimper partout et il vous faudra alors revenir, avec envie. D'autant plus que les équipeurs chevronnés tels que Maurizio Oviglia découvrent sans cesse de nouvelles falaises au rocher et aux lignes exceptionnelles...

Bellisima !

La sympathique falaise de Arcadio
Rahel dans un joli 6c bien à doigts

Ulassài, très belle falaise et potentiel énorme

Vue depuis le port de Gonone :
 

Les grottes de Biddiriscottài et Millenium et deux voies de plusieurs longueurs, Oceano Mare et l'Alchimista


Maurizio Oviglia est l'auteur du fameux topo "Pietra di Luna", la bible de l'escalade en Sardaigne. Chaque page est une invitation à l'escalade.
Dès le premier contact on sent l'homme passionné, qui a oeuvré sans compter pour défricher, nettoyer et équiper des voies magnifiques ainsi "offertes" aux autres grimpeurs. Equipeur (et grimpeur) insatiable et infatigable, il a à son actif plus de 1300 ouvertures de voies. Respect.

http://www.sardiniaclimb.com/


*ceci est la Sardaigne



Photos Rahel Roth/Liv

A stop in my life... March 6, 2010

As some of you know, I had a serious accident last December. Serious but thankfully not too dramatic.
I haven't mentioned it here or talked much about it because I have been putting all of my energy into healing and rehabilitation.

I was lucky, in my bad luck, and everything eventually went much better than what the doctors told me in the beginning.
 

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2010 January 1, 2010

                                                 Here's wishing you many beautiful lines in 2010

                                                                          Happy New Year !



   ©_D.Rastouil

The Power of Light November 5, 2009

Win your weight in Petzl gear.... this is now possible, thanks to the TIKKA² contest !

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Eiger - Memorable moments October 10, 2009

During the last couple of weeks, there have been some memorable moments.

At the end of september, perfect weather conditions allowed us to jump from the mushroom a few times, on the North Face of the Eiger.

It was amazing to BASE jump from a mountain with so much climbing history, and the entire experience of being on and around the Eiger for several days was really nice.

You can easily jump the Mushroom by taking the train to Eigergletscher and then hiking up to the west face in less than 2 hours.
However, you can also decide to sleep up there. Bivying on the West face of the mountain adds a little extra adventure to the whole experience and keeps you away from the 'busy' ambience of the Lauterbrunnen valley...


Between light and clouds

An afternoon at our bivy

Choucas, right in front of us. Not even scared...

The serious but attractive North Face of the Eiger (elevation 3970 m = 13025 ft)

Mushroom view from the west side

Closer to the mushroom

Early start, You never know with the clouds...

The fixed rope section

Enjoying the view of the Monch (4099 m = 13448 ft)

and the Jungfrau (4158 m = 13642 ft)

First Eiger- Mushroom jump

See you !

Back to the bivy. The falling seracs thundered all night.

B.A.S.E. Jump au pays des Trolls September 9, 2009

La légende raconte que parmi les forêts sombres, les lacs reflétant la lune, les fjords profonds et les hautes montagnes aux sommets enneigés se trouvent les trolls…
Est-ce l'envie d'aller à leur rencontre, de visiter le pays des "Liv" qui m"aura amené en Norvège ?

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Des Red Rocks au Big Stone June 15, 2009

Difficile de résister à l'appel des grands murs du Yosemite et de ses voies mythiques dont les noms résonnent dans nos têtes…
Afin de se mettre dans le bain en douceur et de ne pas brutaliser un genou quasi tout neuf, nous avons choisi, dans un premier temps, de faire des voies "à la journée", avec des sacs d'un poids, disons, "raisonnable".

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Red Rocks... May 24, 2009

There are some climbing areas that I have always enjoyed and where I will always return with lots of pleasure.
The Red Rocks are one of those places. I love the sandstone there and the feeling of being in the middle of such a massive rock formation colored in red, purple and beige...
Red rocks is a great place for moderate climbs, bouldering and long multipitch trad climbing route.

That was an ideal place for me to start climbing again outside.

                                                    

        The Trophy Wall a nice steep place to get back your power and endurance

     

The Red Rocks chapter of my trip ended with the Miami Vice party. Gunnar, a friend of ours, celebrated his Birthday in this huge mansion in Las Vegas. Most of the people were climbers, skydivers or base jumpers, and were all dressed in 80's 'Miami Vice' costumes. The 2 days we spen in the mansion felt like a little time warp ;-                                                

                                      Gunnar and Kevin playing the role of Sonnie Crockett and Tubbs

                                                                       The Miami Vice crew

       

                                                                      ©_N.Gerdes

From surgery to climbing February 28, 2009

It's already been two months since I had my knee surgery…
After some good physiotherapy near my home in Bourg St Maurice,  I came to a special rehabilitation center for sports athletes in Capbreton, on the west coast of France.
At the moment that I write this post, I'm still here, chilling on my balcony in the sun, facing the Ocean.
But, despite how it sounds, it's not all holidays here…

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ski and... injury December 18, 2008

Skiing is another activity I really enjoy...

Like all the kids from here, I ski since I'm 2 years old. I'm not an amazing skior but I love it. A skiing day with your friends in the powder is always a great day, bringing smile on the faces, laugh and good feelings...

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The Nose October 30, 2008

Notre voyage touche à sa fin. J'avais envie de vivre une première expérience en big wall et c'est chose faite....

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At the base of El Cap... October 14, 2008

This wall is magic - huge, impressive, and made to be climbed...

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Photos Lake Tahoe August 27, 2008

We've left all of the heavy trad climbing gear for a few days and went to discover others climbing areas around here.

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Ready for new adventures ? August 16, 2008

With zero knowledge of crack climbing, aid climbing or big wall climbing, we are heading for a Yosemite experience. It is going to be fun, new, hard, painfull sometimes and emotionally intense.

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Summer Outdoor Games.... Interlaken July 11, 2008

Same spirit, same concept than in Chamonix but new people and new sports...
This first week of July was busy by the Summer Outdoor Games that have been held in Interlaken.

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Outdoor Games, the Movie.... July 10, 2008

Here is our Team Ibex video from the Summer Outdoor Games.
Congratulations to Tyler and Andrew who did an awesome job and to all the Ibex crew !

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