petzl team

Liv Sansoz's blog

www.petzlteam.com

 

Ready for new adventures ? August 16, 2008

Adventure...                                                                                          (version française après la photo...)

With zero knowledge of crack climbing, aid climbing or big wall climbing, we are heading for a Yosemite experience. It is going to be fun, new, hard, painfull sometimes and emotionally intense.

Here we are, with me from the sport climbing scene and my partner who has only been climbing for a few months... Are we totally insane ? Hope not... Just need to learn all the specifics tips and climb and climb....

So, 3 month trip in California : first stop here, at Lake Tahoe, to acquire as much skill as we can and be ready for the amazing walls in the Yosemite Valley.

Stay in touch...

                          First night on the wall (Donner Summit

Qu'est-ce que l'aventure au final ? Deux personnes avec zéro connaissance en fissures, artif et encore moins en big wall en partance pour une expérience "Yosemitesque" ? Juste pour le plaisir, pour ce que cela va avoir de fort, d'intense, de nouveau et de difficile à la fois ? Juste parce que cela va être beau et que j'en rêve depuis des mois déjà...

Est-ce totalement insensé ? Je ne crois pas. Reste à apprendre, être à l'aise avec ce type d'escalade bien spécifique et tout se barda de matos sur le dos. Et partir humbles...

Alors nous y voilà... Trois mois en Californie... Première étape, ici à Lake Tahoe, à 2000m d'altitude. Premières expériences en fissures, artif, hissage de sacs et montage du portaledge... Plutôt marrant... Vivement le grand saut dans El Cap...

Arvi pas !

Summer Outdoor Games.... Interlaken July 11, 2008

Same spirit, same concept than in Chamonix but new people and new sports...
This first week of July was busy by the Summer Outdoor Games that have been held in Interlaken.
MTB, Kayaking, Climbing, Base Jumping and Paraglyding... 5 sports, 5 days for a movie... here you are... (Watch our movie on my previous post...).

5 days of fun, business, running after the best places, the time and the weather...
But this is the way we like it.

A few pictures (from Dom Daher and Christophe Margot) to give an idea...
More coming soon !

Briefing and three attentive women... : Anne-Maria form Norway, a sweet climber, Ines Papert from Germany, a few times Ice world Champion and an amazing climber, and myself...

                                                                                                ©_OutdoorGames2008_D.Daher

                                            Seppi, kayaking a crazyly narrow river

                                                                                                ©_OutdoorGames2008_D.Daher

                        The Local Stephan Siegriest playing the funambulist... Just amazing !

                                                                                                ©_OutdoorGames2008_C.Margot

                                        Bouldering on the very specific rock of Lindental...

                                                                                        ©_OutdoorGames2008_D.Daher

                                                   One of the editing room, just a big mess

                                                                                                ©_OutdoorGames2008_C.Margot

                            Climbing demo in the village... This boulder was f... hard !

                                                                                    ©_OutdoorGames2008_D.Daher

This time, our crew - TEAM IBEX- was driven by Dave Barlia one of the base jumpers. We were quite an international team : Dave & Andy (the base jumpers), Loren & Nova (Acro Pilote) from US, Gabor (Acro Pilote) from Hungary, Ines (climber) & Seppi (kayaker) from Germany,  Rene (MTB) & Stephan Siegrist (Sackline) from Switzerland, and myself from France.
Our amazing editing crew (Tyler and Andrew) was also from US and our Photographer, Thomas, from Switzerland.
Thanks to all for the nice time shared all together !

The Outdoor Games was an excellent event, marred only by the tragic accident of our friend Yoann. Our thoughts are with his family.

Outdoor Games, the Movie.... July 10, 2008

Here is our Team Ibex video from the Summer Outdoor Games.
Congratulations to Tyler and Andrew who did an awesome job and to all the Ibex crew !

Continue reading...

Hampi on Coolermag.com June 24, 2008

A short itw and new pics on Coolermag.com...

A video by Nike ACG - Made by Julien Nadiras & Evrard Wendenbaum

Training and skydiving... June 16, 2008

Those last weeks where quite bad for climbing outside...
But perfect for training at home the few days we were there!!

Continue reading...

White Wedding May 6, 2008

                                                (Version Française à la fin..)


So... Our trip is almost finished, in a few hours we'll drive to the airport, going back to France...
It's crazy how time flies...



Smith Rock is definitely a great place for climbing and fun : nice rock, nice lines and very kind locals to climb and stay with...


                                                                                                                                       ©_Sonnie Trotter        
                                            Scenic view from the top of the Monkey Face


Here it's just a picture to show the "main" wall, Morning Glory wall, on a "not busy day".

                                                                                                                                        ©_Andrew    Dunbar

                                Looking for the beta on the tricky arête of "Vicious Fish" (5.13c)

For the last few days I've been focused on White Wedding, which I just sent today, on my last day here.
Besides the numbers (White Wedding is probably more a 5.13d than a 5.14a), it was a good challenge to work on this route and to commit on my climbing as it has been a while since I tried a "hard routes".


I don't many pictures this time... It was better to stay focused on my climbing instead on photos once...

                                                                                                                                      ©_Andrew Dunbar
                                                       White Wedding, lower crux

                                                                                                                                       ©_Andrew Dunbar
                                                            Dynamic move or falling ?


                                                                                                                                      ©_Andrew Dunbar

                                    Climbing is fun, happiness and shared moments


Bye Bye to all the people we've met here, special thanks to Sierra and Mark, Bryan (the "lucky belayer" on WW) and of course Mattt and my close friends Shelley and Andrew...

Et voilà, notre trip touche déjà à sa fin....Pfffff.... Dans quelques heures c'est la route pour l'aéroport et le long voyage pour revenir en France... Nous avons vraiment profité de la grimpe ici en dépit d'un météo chaotique et l'idée de prolonger le séjour nous a bien effleuré plus d'une fois !

J'ai vraiment aimé l'escalade ici : escalade bien spécifique, verticale, technique et souvent engagée... Bien old school... Et pour rendre l'escalade encore plus agréable, les locaux ont vraiment un bon esprit : tous ceux que nous avons rencontrés ont été particulièrement sympathiques, ouverts et accueillants...

Quelues photos, pas des plus mythiques parce que j'avais choisi l'option "pas de photographe plus de grimpe".... ;-)


                                                                                                                                       ©_Sonnie Trotter        
                                            Une petite vue générale depuis le sommet du Monkey Face


Celle-ci, c'est juste pour vous montrer le mur "principal" : le Morning Glory wall

                                                                                                                                        ©_Andrew    Dunbar

La voie s'appelle "Vicious Fish" (8a+/8b) et j'ai passé un petit moment à déchiffrer les méthodes de cette arrête bien technique... Les mouv sont vraiment classes !


Quelques mots sur "White Wedding" que j'ai réussi ce matin, dernier jour du trip évidemment.
Cela faisait un moment que je n'avais pas travaillé de voie un peu plus dure et réussir un petit "chantier" est toujours fort sympathique !
Indépendamment "du chiffre" (la voie est côté 8b+ mais nous sommes plusieurs à penser qu'il s'agit d'un 8b), je suis bien contente d'avoir retrouvé de bonnes sensations, la capacité à récupérer dans la voie et à rester lucide jusqu'au relais...

                                                                                                                                      ©_Andrew Dunbar
                                                       White Wedding, le crux du bas...

                                                                                                                                       ©_Andrew Dunbar
                    Il m'aura posé quelques problèmes ce mouvement du mono/bi... Ce n'est pas vraiment mon style préféré...


                                                                                                                                      ©_Andrew Dunbar

                                    Grimper...du plaisir, de la joie et des moments forts partagés, c'est simple !

Ciao à toutes les personnes que nous avons rencontrées ici, un grand Merci à Sierra & Mark, Bryan (le "lucky belayer" dans WW) et bien sûr, Mattt et mes amis proches, Shelley & Andrew de Boulder...

                                                                                                               

                                                                                                               

Smith Rock April 25, 2008


What's new ?

Smith Rock was a lengedary cliff for sport climbing in the late eigthies. What cimber hasn't dreamt of the line "Just do it" ? (5.14c) The First Ascent was made by JB Tribout in 1992....
"To bolt or not to be" is another really technical famous route where more than one climber has been shut down. JB did also the First Ascent in 1986... it was the first 5.14 in US...


                                            On the trail on our way to climb.


So here we are, in this amazing place... The climbing is very technical, small holds on vertical walls, just how I like it. The routes are usually a little (and sometimes a lot) run out (hehehe) but this makes the challenge even nicer... Back to the source... ;-)


                                Warming up on "Vomit Launch" at the Cocaine Gully wall

Since we've been here, the weather has been a little unpredictable... Cold for a while, warm just after... and we also had a few days of snow... I usually love the snow but waking up with the white powder on your balcony is not that exciting when you are on a climbing trip... Despite the weather, we are all having fun and psyched to climb even under the snow...

                                                   The snow... Nice but crazy ! 

Anyway, so far I've climbed a few nice routes to get back in shape after 3 weeks "up and down" due to something I brought back from India and that made me quite tired and weak. I've started to work "White Wedding" a few times and all the moves are going well. The next step is now to link them and go to the anchor... Easy to say, challenging to do...

                                        Working on White Wedding under the snow...


More news soon....

Cheers

                                                                                                                Photos : Andrew, Mattt

Back to the last few weeks... March 11, 2008

The last past weeks were very busy and fantabulous ! Now I'm back to my sweet place, enjoying life, ski as the snow just felt and training on plastic... But the great feelings and memories of the last few weeks are still very omnipresent in my minds...

Can't stop thinking about the Outdoor Games in Chamonix where we all had so much fun !




Enjoy the final cut here, and don't forget to vote for it !

Afterward, we flew thru Mumbay - India, and took the long road for Hampi... A paradise for bouldering in a very special atmosphere that I've never found anywhere else...

This trip was a wonderfull experience and for many reasons !
    The life in India... it seems that time stopped while we were over there...
    The climbing, the rock and the huge potential of Hampi...
    The people we met there and share great moments with...
    We won't thanks enough Vaibhav for all he did for us, for his enthousiam and freshness to share his happiness     while succeeding on a problem.... Watching him climbing was always a pleasure and a special moment ! The         good spirit between us and with the others climbers that we met...


For sure, I will return in Hampi and visit others places as well !

The last pictures...

                            Hampi's elephant taking his bath every morning...                     ©_E.Wendenbaum


Goan Corner, one of the climbers lodge where we stayed. A cool and relaxing place...               ©_A.Ballay



                    Boulders everywhere, temples everywhere, serenity everyday...         ©_E.Wendenbaum


Speaking with the locals is not always easy but all the Indian people we met were really nice and helpfull....
Here, with the kids...                                                                                     ©_E.Wendenbaum


I couldn't climb for 2-3 days without pain because of a small infection on my little toe. The guys found the solution and killed my brand-new paire of Cobra...                                                            ©_E.Wendenbaum


                                                      Small crimps and grimace...                             ©_A.Ballay


                              Walking thru the last boulder of the day at "Baba Café" place             ©_A.Ballay

HAMPI LIFE March 1, 2008

There's soooo much to say about our days here !
The people, the climbing, the good vibes, the skin pain and the food...

Behind the pictures I hope I could share a little of those great moments with you... (photos : Axel Ballay, Mike Fuselier)


Typical India Kids... so full of life !


Axel playing with the rock


Mike succeed on "Middle Way" by night


"Myself" in "ninety degrees edge" a pure angle...


A new boulder that we decided to call "fingers Killer"


Ju, focus behind his camera


Playing "Jane"

HAPPY HAMPI February 28, 2008

Every sunrise is the sign of a new day. Here every new day means new places, new boulders, new climbs and new emotions to share. Our crew have a lots of fun, climb hard and  most of all we realize how lucky and happy we are to be here.

Photos by Evrard Wendenbaum


Another view of Hampi's area... Boulders and boulders everywhere...


A new project for the boys... Ju looking for the beta


Evrard, when he's not shooting or climbing...
Swimming in the lake... a break that we all enjoyed !


" Like a hunter" a nice and well known boulder here

Namaste ! February 26, 2008

After an epic story to get a new visa at the last minute we finally managed to reach India. This country is beautifull, full of colors, rich of magic landscapes and history. Indian people are very lifefull, always smiling, always nice, it's incredible.

Evrard, Vaibhav (our local guide and friend) and I went thru Hampi where we met the rest of the crew : Mike, Axel and Ju Nadiras. All of us are so lucky to be here !

I was looking since a long time to came here, inspired by the pictures I've seen before. But the reality is far better that I excpected it would be.

The climbing is awesome on this big ball of granite. Boulders are just everywhere around us. We start to get used now with the warm and the aggressive rock, psyched to climb in such an unbelievable place...

A few pics... by Axel Ballay and Mike Fuselier...


                                                       Hampi and it's boulder Chaos


                                           One of the incredible colored and Human part of India

                                    My first boulder in Hampi just to get used with the height

                                                       Axel in action... Just another crazy dyno...

More action pics soon...

Photos Outdoor Games February 18, 2008

After the words, the pictures... They speak by themselves...

Thanks to Philippe Fragnol for his shoots.

©_OutdoorGames2008_P Fragnol  

The first evening at our "base camp". Sam is giving the security instructions

©_OutdoorGames2008_P Fragnol  

Ça tourne... Erwan derrière la caméra, moi en "grosses" dans un 6a des familles....

©_OutdoorGames2008_P Fragnol  

Ice climbing at the Outdoor Games Village by night

©_OutdoorGames2008_P Fragnol  

The best for the end... Could you imagine this ?

Film feelings February 17, 2008

The Outdoor Games are almost over.

It was really fun to discover the 7 team's movies, and each one made a very great job ! We are very happy with our film and I really wanted to congratulate our editing crew, managed by Guillaume Broust, for his professionalism and talent. A huge thanks to Denis, Chris, Seb and Guillaume.

A big thanks to the "action crew" for the 7 days spent all together...
A big tnahks to the Maison Carrier team : Martine, Isa and Pierre...
A big thanks to Camille and Philippe Fragnol for their reception and kindness...
A big thanks to David, Nicolas and Laurence for the event...

Watch our movie here, and if you like it, vote for it !
Cheers !

http://winter.outdoorgames.org/


The crazy week February 16, 2008

The action stage is over, and the whole crew had a super-great-time in such a magic place...

We definitely had a crazy week, running everywhere, connecting one things after another... And it was the same for the editing crew that didn't sleep so much during the last 3 days, but they did a very professional job.

Between us, the atmosphere was really friendly, relax but efficient. Those Outdoor Games were a very strong human adventure, meeting new people, sharing time and passions all together.

Whatever is the issue, we'll all leave the place with a big smile on our face and lots of dreams in our minds...

I can't stand to see all the different movies and slide-shows tonight. It's going to be a big surprise and for sure a very emotional moment...

Hope you'll like them too !
Ciao

ps : Tony got all our pictures so go and see his blog for fun. Below I just put the "slides photos"...


Erwan, notre homme à tout faire, caméraman, guide, grimpeur, and more...
et Martial notre guide de luxe sans qui nous n'aurions pas pu tourner les images.
Petite pause avant de démarrer le second quart de la journée...


Tony, photographe de l'extreme ;-)


Vivien, notre snowboardeur aux grandes gerbes... qui vous livre son feeling...

Vivien : it was a very nice team adventure, in a magic place, everybody was speed and didn't sleep a lot (especially the prod guys who made a crazy job) but we never saw stress, and a very good feeling stayed during all the week. No matter the competition result... Above all, it was some very nice meetings and a great sharing of passion. Thanks a lot to every body !

ACTION ! February 9, 2008

It's going to be fun, it's going to be a nice human adventure, it's going to be a crazy week... But we will survive...

Come back and check out our blogs for the Outdoor Games news...


Tschussss...

TENERIFE December 28, 2007

 

In this period of the year we usually enjoy in the skiing and Ice Climbing.
To change, Martina Cufar (from Slovenia) and I decided to go climbing in a warm and exotic place. The Canarian islands sounds the perfect place to go as well we didn’t know them…  
 

Décembre est habituellement une période où nous profitons du ski et de la glace.

Pour changer, Martina Cufar (Slovénie) et moi recherchions un endroit original et ensoleillé pour grimper entre amies. Les ïles des Canaries se sont avérées le lieu idéal, un brin d’exotisme, du rocher déroutant et de l’océan à perte de vue.

 

 

Evrard Wendenbaum

  

After a few years of competitions and hours in the isolation rooms spent together it’s a very nice trip that we shared…

Après plusieurs années de compétitions et d'heures d'isolement passées ensemble, c'est un super trip que nous avons partagé...

 

 

 

We chose to go on Tenerife Island, swimming gear neighboring our harnesses, ropes and crashpads in our bags. You can easily imagine our surprise when, in the second day of the trip we coudn’t go climbing in the Teide area because of the snow falling ! (Teide is  a volcano, 3 718m high)

 

C’est donc sur l’île de Ténérife que nous avons posé notre dévolu, maillots de bain côtoyant harnais, cordes et crash pads dans nos sacs. Nous n’avions pas imaginé que nous nous prendrions un « but de neige » dès le deuxième jour, faisant demi-tour sur la route bloquée alors que nous montions grimper au pied du Teide (le volcan de Ténérife, 3 718 m s’il vous plaît…)

 

 

Evrard Wendenbaum

 

An easy and no named boulder at Las Cañadas to show you the Teide…

Un bloc facile et sans nom à Las Cañadas pour vous montrer ce fameux Teide…

 

 

 

Tenerife is full of different areas (boulders and routes) and we climbed on a  new area everyday. From the North to the South you can find many places such as Martianez (Puerto de la Cruz), Guia de Isora, Las Cañadas (or El Capricho) and of course the most famous of all is the area of Arico around which you have many « barrancos » (canyons) where you can climb. Each time it’s a new atmosphere and type of climbing that we found and each time it was a new source of emotions and sometimes of wonder.

 

Ténérife possède plein de sites plus ou moins grands aussi bien en bloc qu’en voies et nous avons grimpé chaque jour dans un site différent. De Martianez (Puerto de la Cruz) à Arico (la zone la plus connue) en passant par Guia de Isora (super classe) ou Las Cañadas (décor surréaliste) c’est à chaque fois un style nouveau et une ambiance différente que nous avons trouvé, sources d’émotions et parfois d’émerveillement…

 

 

 

Evrard Wendenbaum

 

Martina Flashing « Moralla Vasca », 8a, Guia de Isora

Martina en train de flasher « Moralla Vasca », 8a, à Guia de Isora

 

 

 

 

Evrard Wendenbaum

 

Learning how to climb cracks in « Anikilator », 7b, Arico

Petit apprentissage de l’escalade en fissure dans « Anikilator », 7b à Arico

 

 

 

A deep thanks to my friend Martina for her enthusiasm and « easy living with »,  to Evrard and Marie for their patience and friendship but most of all, a hugh thanks to Ale or is kindness, informations help and advices and to the others locals who help us in a way or another.

 

 

Un grand merci à Martina, Evrard et Marie pour leur sympathie et bonne humeur et surtout à Ale, un des grimpeurs local de Arico, pour ses conseils, ses infos et sa disponibilité.

 

Cataluña December 3, 2007

The region of Catalonia is the place to be right now... You can meet Chris, the 2 Patxi (Arocena and Usobiaga), Said and many others well known climbers... in the area of Montsant and Siurana. We were there too, looking for the warm, nice routes and great rocks before winter and snow...

L'Espagne semble sous les feux de la rampe en ce moment avec des Chris, des Patxi et autres Said que l'on peut croiser au pied des voies de Montsant ou de Siurana, au bar de Cornudella ou chez Toni Arbones... Sans s'être passé le mot, nous étions aussi partis chercher un peu de chaleur, de belles lignes et du super rocher avant un hiver qui s'annonce... enneigé...


The follow-up with pictures... (By David Rastouil)
Le reste en images... (par David Rastouil)


Last route (no name) before the long driving back home...
Une petite dernière (sans nom) avant les 10 heures de route... Une belle traversée déversante qui se termine sur du crépi moins raide... les doigts en ont pris un sacré coup...




"La esclava del tempio" first part is a nice 8a+ which continue for 60m of climbing graded 8b. My friend David onsigthed the whole route. Good job ! Toni Arbonès, the routesetter repointed it a few days ago, the day after he ran a semi marathon...
(the photo is taken during my good but unsucessfull onsight attempt of the 8a+)


"La esclava del tempio" une voie coté 8a+ jusqu'au premier relais et qui se poursuit en 8b de 60m, réalisée à vue par David ! Bravo à lui pour cette très belle perf, effectuée sous l'oeil attentif de son ouvreur, Toni Arbones (pour la petite histoire, Toni enchaînera cette voie quelques jours plus tard, au lendemain d'un semi-marathon... Y a plus qu'à s'y mettre...)
Photo prise lors de mon essai à vue du 8a+, bien tenté mais qui n'a pas abouti malgré un vieux combat jusque sous le relais...




Just for the artistic part...
Celle-là c'est pour le côté "artistique"...




No photoshop, no works on it... Just an unlikely sky !
Merci dame Nature pour ces lumières. No photoshop, no retouches... Un ciel incroyable !


Some nice realizations, some great attempts, a good spirit beetween the climbers, locals and foreigners... we already have to drive back, lots of great pictures and good vibes in minds...

Quelques belles croix, de beaux essais, un bon spirit entre nous, des rencontres avec les grimpeurs du coin ou ceux venus de loin, plein de bonnes sensations... c'est déjà le retour, des images et des good vibes plein la tête...


Welcome ;-) October 20, 2007

Back to France... La montagne est magnifique, les sommets enneigés, il gèle le matin... Un sac est défait, un autre se re-prépare avec enthousiasme...

Le Petzl Roc Trip aura été l'occasion de lancer une première série de blogs et si ce n'est déjà fait, je vous invite à visiter ceux des amis.

Pour ma part, j'actualiserai avec plaisir ce blog pour partager de belles journées de grimpe, des voyages ou tout simplement une réflexion sur l'activité...

Vous êtes donc les bienvenu(e)s ! Participez, postez vos commentaires... mais ne perdez pas de vue l'essentiel : les émotions que vous vivrez vous même en grimpant.

Surfez sur la toile un peu, grimpez sur le caillou beaucoup !
Enjoy !


Photo by Matt's eyes

"No Redemption" October 13, 2007

No redemption for the climbers ?

Maybe, maybe not... whatever is the response, one thing is sure : the 3 european girls, Martina, Marrieta and myself liked the "No Redemption" route !

A great technical route where your body instinct seems more important than power... A route to try with "stick conditions" ;-)

And the great thing about it that "No Redemption" is one of our bounty routes... Good for the RRGCC !

Liv Sansoz sending No redemption
"No Redemption" route ; photo : Fred. Labreveux

Awesome place ! October 12, 2007

Couldn't expected a so huge and great place for climbing !

The Reds are definitely an awesome place to keep protected.

Better understand now the importance of our implication to provide some help at the RRGCC fighting.

For sure each climber will give his best to succeed on the Bounty routes! More news coming soon !


Photo : Fred Labreveux