petzl team

Liv Sansoz's blog

www.petzlteam.com

Keyword - Bouldering

Ticino climbing and shooting story March 16, 2011


Every climbing trip brings us to different places to meet other climbers.
The last couple of days I was in Ticino with some Mountain Hardwear climbers and friends: Loic Gaidioz from France, Ethan Pringle and Matt Wilder from the USA. Marc Daviet, Chuk Fryberger and Clarence Hjert came with us for a specific mission.

Our primary goal was to climb and have fun. Our second goal was to take some photos and make video for the Mountain Hardwear company (that is to say, the specific mission...).

Obviously, when photos are involved, there are always surprises, and funny things happen.

We started our trip from Chamonix in late afternoon. As soon as we arrived in Italy via the Mont Blanc tunnel, it snowed and rained until we reached our final destination. This was of course not a good sign...
Typical for a photo shoot, we arrived late, tired and with no real plan for the day after: we had gotten lost at some point because the GPS turned off for no reason, we had no maps, and there was a traffic jam in Milano. And of course we stopped at one of those famous Autogrills to eat some “delicious” food… ;-)  It was a great start! ;-)  

We woke up under a blue sky but on wet ground which meant wet rock...  After a few errands we finally got to Brione which we hoped would dry fast. And a few boulders were... almost dry. There was snow at the base though. Whatever: we climbed a few cool problems, commited, failed, succeeded... and we had fun !
Our day ended with food, beer, wine and some local digestives. The owner of the restorant was probably impressed by the camera and Chuck filming so we got some free desert and twice some digestives. Now you know.. always go to dinner with a professional cameraman if you want to eat for cheap ;)


We woke up the next day even more tired... Went for a coffee (or two) and hit the road to Cresciano, which is truly a dream spot for bouldering. Tons of problems everywhere, amazing granite rock, nice landings and nice setting in the forest. Just walking between the boulders in the forest makes you feel good.
The conditions were not great though. It rained a little, and when it was not raining the atmosphere remained very wet. Annoying but not enough to prevent us from climbing. Matt and Loic did a couple of good tries in Frank's wild year (8A+) that Ethan had already sent some days before. Finaly Loic sent it in a very proper way just before it started to rain for real. It was a good way to end the trip - testing the new Dry-Q™ fabric of our jackets. This new membrane is just amazing - way more breathable than anything else and perfectly waterproof. Hard to beat! Seriously.

Despite the uncooperative weather, the great energy and positive atmosphere between us made this short trip very fun. Great taht we got to climb on days that seemed unclimbable.

The making off :

Ready ? Action !

Matt Wilder warming up slowly but steadily

Chuck and Clarence directing Ethan for the next "very complicated" sequence ;)

Easy and fun boulder to keep the momentum

Marc Focused on his shooting

Loic sending "Frank's wild year" (8A+)

Happy Chuck !

The guys pulling down my hat on my eyes... at the worst moment ! No !

Liv Aka "Oui Oui" (private french joke) ;)

Don't forget to follow Loic, Ethan and Matt during the next couple of weeks. Loic is currently training hard for the bouldering world cups, Ethan will be in Spain to send some super hard routes, and Matt will climb some hard problems in both Fontainebleau and Ticino.
Oh.. and I'm leaving tomorrow for the USA. Mostly going crack climbing with my friend Steph Davis and hopefully sending some beautiful lines!

The Power Powder contest February 4, 2011


Petit retour rapide et en images sur le Power Powder, un événement fort sympathique mixant ski et escalade.
Cela se passait chez nos cousins Italiens, à la Thuile d'Aoste sous l'impulsion d'un homme passionné, Moreno Dalle Molle.
L'idée n'est pas nouvelle en soi puisque les Arcs avaient déjà organisé le Trophée Ski Escalade à l'époque d'un certaine Isabelle Patissier.
Mais qui dit nouvelle époque dit nouvelle formule : plus de slalom mais un derby. Pas une voie sur un mur de neuf mètres mais une trentaine de blocs ouverts par il Maestro Alberto Gnerro.

Derby le samedi, bloc le dimanche, ambiance à l'Italienne.... que dire d'autre ? Le temps était parfait, la neige pas des plus faciles à skier, des blocs de toute beauté et des grimpeurs skieurs heureux...


Le reste en images par Léa Deslandes et iIlGruppoDigitale.com



Un peu plus de 70 riders au sommet de la face du Mont Belvédère




Tony Lamiche en pleine concentration avant de nous faire une Lamichette

(il aura été le seul rider à se faire disqualifier... Dommage il avait le troisième temps)


Deux minutes de descente avec des jambes cramées au bout de dix secondes... Aie aie aie...


Miss Léa (première du Derby) et Miss Liv (deuxième du Derby)

On pourrait presque toucher le Mont Blanc du bout des doigts



Notre "Hotel", la Caserne du Monte Bianco rien que pour Léa et moi... La classe ;)

Un grand merci au Major Daniele Battaini pour son accueil



Le lendemain, Léa dans un des blocs durs des qualif



Joli bloc de finale, pas facile facile...




La jeune Giada. Petite rando dans le bloc de finale.




Pour ma part cela faisait bien longtemps que je n'avais plus éprouvé cette petite boule au ventre et cette détermination de compétition ;)


Dommage que nous n'étions que quelques français à être venus et peu nombreux à jouer le combiné ski-escalade alors que c'était là tout l'intérêt de ce contest !
Guettez la prochaine édition, ça vaut vraiment le coup !

Les résultats pour info...
Freeride :
Femmes
1) Deslandes Lea 1'57''96
2) Sansoz Liv 2'00''56
3) Bottero Monica 2'05''08

Hommes
1) Chatrian Elia 57''51
2) Cardelli Tommaso 1'07''00
3) De Cassan Frederico 1'08''72

Bloc
Femmes
1) Zampa Giada 4511,44 pts
2) Sansoz Liv 2511,44pts
3) Cottalorda Raffaella 2178,1 pts
4) Deslandes Lea 1701,91 pts

Hommes
1) Ceria Niccola 779.51 pts
2) Caminati Michele 745,03 pts
3) Ghisolfi Stefano 816.55 pts

Combiné
Femmes
1)Sansoz Liv
2) Deslandes Lea
3) Brunial Electra

Hommes
1) Cardelli Tommaso
2) Amosso Gaspare Matteo
3) Gamba Simone



 

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