petzl team

Liv Sansoz's blog

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Ticino climbing and shooting story March 16, 2011


Every climbing trip brings us to different places to meet other climbers.
The last couple of days I was in Ticino with some Mountain Hardwear climbers and friends: Loic Gaidioz from France, Ethan Pringle and Matt Wilder from the USA. Marc Daviet, Chuk Fryberger and Clarence Hjert came with us for a specific mission.

Our primary goal was to climb and have fun. Our second goal was to take some photos and make video for the Mountain Hardwear company (that is to say, the specific mission...).

Obviously, when photos are involved, there are always surprises, and funny things happen.

We started our trip from Chamonix in late afternoon. As soon as we arrived in Italy via the Mont Blanc tunnel, it snowed and rained until we reached our final destination. This was of course not a good sign...
Typical for a photo shoot, we arrived late, tired and with no real plan for the day after: we had gotten lost at some point because the GPS turned off for no reason, we had no maps, and there was a traffic jam in Milano. And of course we stopped at one of those famous Autogrills to eat some “delicious” food… ;-)  It was a great start! ;-)  

We woke up under a blue sky but on wet ground which meant wet rock...  After a few errands we finally got to Brione which we hoped would dry fast. And a few boulders were... almost dry. There was snow at the base though. Whatever: we climbed a few cool problems, commited, failed, succeeded... and we had fun !
Our day ended with food, beer, wine and some local digestives. The owner of the restorant was probably impressed by the camera and Chuck filming so we got some free desert and twice some digestives. Now you know.. always go to dinner with a professional cameraman if you want to eat for cheap ;)


We woke up the next day even more tired... Went for a coffee (or two) and hit the road to Cresciano, which is truly a dream spot for bouldering. Tons of problems everywhere, amazing granite rock, nice landings and nice setting in the forest. Just walking between the boulders in the forest makes you feel good.
The conditions were not great though. It rained a little, and when it was not raining the atmosphere remained very wet. Annoying but not enough to prevent us from climbing. Matt and Loic did a couple of good tries in Frank's wild year (8A+) that Ethan had already sent some days before. Finaly Loic sent it in a very proper way just before it started to rain for real. It was a good way to end the trip - testing the new Dry-Q™ fabric of our jackets. This new membrane is just amazing - way more breathable than anything else and perfectly waterproof. Hard to beat! Seriously.

Despite the uncooperative weather, the great energy and positive atmosphere between us made this short trip very fun. Great taht we got to climb on days that seemed unclimbable.

The making off :

Ready ? Action !

Matt Wilder warming up slowly but steadily

Chuck and Clarence directing Ethan for the next "very complicated" sequence ;)

Easy and fun boulder to keep the momentum

Marc Focused on his shooting

Loic sending "Frank's wild year" (8A+)

Happy Chuck !

The guys pulling down my hat on my eyes... at the worst moment ! No !

Liv Aka "Oui Oui" (private french joke) ;)

Don't forget to follow Loic, Ethan and Matt during the next couple of weeks. Loic is currently training hard for the bouldering world cups, Ethan will be in Spain to send some super hard routes, and Matt will climb some hard problems in both Fontainebleau and Ticino.
Oh.. and I'm leaving tomorrow for the USA. Mostly going crack climbing with my friend Steph Davis and hopefully sending some beautiful lines!

Outdoor Games with the Golgoht July 29, 2010

A few words about the amazing week we had during the Nissan Outdoor Games in Chamonix. The concept : five teams have to make a five minutes film showing five outdoor activities in five days. This year, I took part in the event with the Golgoht team, from Finland. And that was awesome !

First of all the Finnish crew was just the coolest guys to work and hang out with. They drove all the way down to Chamonix from Helsinki in their old huge pink bus. The coolest bus I have ever seen before in my life ! Secondly we were a great group of outdoor athletes : Matt Cooke (kayaking), Juha-Matti Pouta (VTT), Fabian Equey (Paragliding), Alex Aimard (paragliding and BASE jumping), Jean-Phi Teffaud (BASE jumping) and myself (obviously for climbing). Everyone performed very well in their outdoor activity. A special big up for Juha who jumped three times the nordic ski jump with his bike. More than 20m in the air ! That was... higly impressive and to be honest, we thought he was going to die... Watch our movie below and you'll get it.

This week was full of actions, full of fun and, above all, it was a nice human adventure. We shared something more than just our passion for the outdoor activities. Basically, it brought me a lot of good energies and lots of happiness. I'm definetely looking forward to the 2011 edition with the same crew !

A huge thanks to the Golgoht and the friends who gave us a hand to make this film happen.

More about the editing crew : http://www.pablo.fi/

Photos By Tero Repo http://www.terorepo.com/

The wicked crew in the pink bus... love those guys !

Getting the traveling fixed to film the BASE jump sequence (at 5:30 am...)

Alex and Jean-Fi during one of their amazing two way. A very intense moment...

Scouting for the ideal route : hard enough with a nice scenery...

Kim jumaring for is second time of his life without any troubles


A little of gear for the big fall sequence on the top of the Aiguille du Midi

The video :

The Power of Light November 5, 2009

Win your weight in Petzl gear.... this is now possible, thanks to the TIKKA² contest !

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B.A.S.E. Jump au pays des Trolls September 9, 2009

La légende raconte que parmi les forêts sombres, les lacs reflétant la lune, les fjords profonds et les hautes montagnes aux sommets enneigés se trouvent les trolls…
Est-ce l'envie d'aller à leur rencontre, de visiter le pays des "Liv" qui m"aura amené en Norvège ?

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Summer Outdoor Games.... Interlaken July 11, 2008

Same spirit, same concept than in Chamonix but new people and new sports...
This first week of July was busy by the Summer Outdoor Games that have been held in Interlaken.

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Outdoor Games, the Movie.... July 10, 2008

Here is our Team Ibex video from the Summer Outdoor Games.
Congratulations to Tyler and Andrew who did an awesome job and to all the Ibex crew !

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Hampi on Coolermag.com June 24, 2008

Watch the video from Hampi.

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Back to the last few weeks... March 11, 2008

The last past weeks were very busy and fantabulous ! Now I'm back to my sweet place, enjoying life, ski as the snow just felt and training on plastic... But the great feelings and memories of the last few weeks are still very omnipresent in my minds...

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Film feelings February 17, 2008

The Outdoor Games are almost over.

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The crazy week February 16, 2008

The action stage is over, and the whole crew had a super-great-time in such a magic place...

We definitely had a crazy week, running everywhere, connecting one things after another... And it was the same for the editing crew that didn't sleep so much during the last 3 days, but they did a very professional job.

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ACTION ! February 9, 2008

It's going to be fun, it's going to be a nice human adventure, it's going to be a crazy week... But we will survive...

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